Berlin getaway series: #2.3 Düsseldorf - Best Coffee

il pastaio 

Though I can't claim to know all the coffee houses in Düsseldorf, I can certainly attest that after finding this particular place I have had no need to look further.

 

Il pastaio im Carsch-Haus Düsseldorf (c) MJT

Hidden away underground like a secret gem is this Italian espresso bar, alongside its cakes and pasta stores. But everything about this place feels like a genuine Italian coffee bar - sitting around 3 sides of the barrister, you are perched on stools to enjoy your espresso or espresso macchiato, and the service is friendly and quick, and the coffee is fantastic - it is like a piece of Italy tucked underground Düsseldorf.

Care of www.il-pastaio.de

So how does one find "il pastaio"?!
Firstly there is a department store called "Carsch Haus" (www.carsch-haus.de) and in the basement of Carsch Haus there is a food court, with a number of well presented and cosy places to enjoy some drinks and foods. Walking through on the right hand side is where you will find the three divisions of "il pastaio".

Care of www.carsch-haus.de

Conveniently the basement of Carsch Haus links to the subway station "Heinrich-Heine-Allee", so if arriving by train, simply continue walking in the subway towards Carsch Haus and then further into the food court. (www.delikatessa.com)

Espresso Bar - il pastaio (c) MJT

With an espresso macchiato costing 2€, it is the perfect afternoon pick me up, and I confess that the first time I found this place, I basically skipped with giddiness back to work, not for the caffeine, but that I had found somewhere that served excellent coffee.

Espresso macchiato - il pastaio (c) MJT

However if you prefer to take your time, as I have observed many pensioners around 2:30pm doing so, there is an delicious looking  selection of "dolce" desserts. The tiramisu was personally recommended to me, though it is a little too creamy for my taste. However the slice of lemon meringue was the perfect combination and ratio of all layers and flavours.

Tiramisu - il pastaio (c) MJT

I've been back most days for my daily fix of coffee and to practice some Italian, and the quality (of the coffee) never wavers. It is often crowded with people, but I've never had to wait more than three minutes to find a seat.

il pastaio im Carsch-Haus Düsseldorf (c) MJT

Coffee: ★★★★★
Service: ★★★★★
Recommended: espresso macchiato
Price: 2€

Directions here:

Care of www.delicatessa.com

Berlin getaway series: #2.2 K21 Contemporary Art Gallery

K21

K21 is one of the two art gallery buildings here in Düsseldorf and houses the contemporary art collection and exhibitions.  The other building is K20 further down the road.

K21 (c) MJT

I had actually planned to come back to K21 at some point during my visit to Düsseldorf, yet as I was walking past I noticed that there was a jazz festival happening, and by fortune due to this the gallery was actually free on this particular Sunday (saving 12€).

Innenhof K21 (c) MJT

And so in making my way around I looked up to the glass dome, only to notice the "in orbit" installation by Berlin based artist Tomás Saraceno.

 

Looking up to the glass dome K21 (c) MJT

A steel net inspired by spider webs, this interactive suspended exhibition has a maximum of ten people climbing over it at any one time. And so naturally I had to give it a go!

Waiting in line for "in orbit" K21 (c) MJT

Truly an amazing feat and collaboration between art, engineering, architecture, nature and inspiration. The intention behind the installation was to resemble a surreal landscape, or a sea of clouds - with the observers looking down at the world below, or vice versa observers looking up at participants swimming in the air.
 

From model to realisation (c) MJT

Waiting in line I couldn't help make the comparison of monkeys in the zoo clambering around their enclosure - the use of limbs to move across the wires particularly.

"in orbit" K21 (c) MJT

A few more facts collected while waiting (a good half hour!) is that the structure is suspended 25m above the piazza of the art gallery, encompasses 2500m2, has six inflated PVC spheres and has three levels that one can move around. It weighs 3 tonnes, and the largest sphere alone weighs 300 kilograms.

PVC spheres (c) MJT

One concept that I particularly like about Saraceno's work, is that it evokes another level of communication that we as humans are rarely perceptive. Exactly like a spider's web, the vibrations of other people moving around the web is perceptible to everyone else - think of a suspended bridge or the scene in the hobbit 2, where the web vibrates throughout the forest when bilbo touches it. And so the work refines our sensors on a different level. Much of Saraceno's work it turns out is inspired by the research of spiders, and a related exhibition even uses real examples of natural webs. 

Spider web (c) MJT

Spider web (c) MJT

Spider web (c) MJT

Suiting up into a one-sy and having to wear appropriate shoes really did make it feel like we were about to go "into orbit" and the experience was definitely worth the wait. 

Going into orbit (c) MJT

Once onto the web it was quite a work out, since the steel really does move with everyone's weight distribution, and at times can go from being a slight incline to climbing vertically up the wall. Going between the three levels involves climbing through a round hole or tunnel, and the steel expands as one's weight moves from one to the other. 

Cloud pillows (c) MJT

A pile of pillows is extremely comfortable to lie down upon and feel as if you are sitting on a cloud looking down on the world, or looking up through the glass dome at the clouds outside.  

Looking up (c) MJT

In summary the rest of the art gallery was interesting but not so comprehensive, however the Saraceno installation and exhibition far outweighed any reservations and was well worth the visit. Many people could only observe and not participate, however I felt entirely safe and very little vertico - and besides which, the pillows, walls and balloons give relief when exploring. 

Saraceno "in orbit" (c) MJT

Safety precautions included no-one under 12 allowed, and 12-16 only by signed permission from parent or guardian. We had to sign a disclaimer before being admitted and of course good health is necessary, as it really is a work out clambering around. But so much fun - like being a kid in a giant spider web! 

Well worth the experience (c) MJT

For more information about the artist Tomás Saraceno, check out www.tomassaraceno.com

Berlin getaway series: #2.1 Düsseldorf on Sunday

Sunday in Düsseldorf

My exploration into the city on Sunday proved to be well worth the effort, for while the shops are closed (as they are also in Berlin) the Alt-Stadt was full of liveliness and events.

 

Initially I had planned to walk directly to the Rhein and walk along the river bank, however in doing so I passed through the gardens where the modern art gallery K21 is situated.

K21 - Kunstsammlung (c) MJT

Housing the city's post 1980s art collections, the building was originally the Ständehaus or provincial parliament (1880), and was redesigned and opened in its current form in 2002.
 

Kris Martin 2011 "Untitled" at  K21 (c) MJT

Juan Munoz 1996 "Piazza" (c) MJT

Fortuitous my timing was, as it was a free jazz event, which meant that the gallery was open for free (normally 12€) and I was truly inspired by the installation by Tomás Saraceno - but I need to devote an entire post to this particular activity.

Tomás Saraceno installation at K21 (c) MJT

Original staircase in K21 (c) MJT

The coffee at the gallery's cafe smelled particularly good, though I didn't have a chance to sample it. But i may have to go back to check!

Underpass African market (c) MJT

Underpass African market (c) MJT

Continuing in the direction of the Rhein I was attracted to some rhythmic drumming and soon found myself underneath the freeway heading over the bridge, where an African market was in full swing. Wares, food, clothing and music from numerous African countries make up this market, and a drumming performance (by a local African drumming class) was the highlight of the market and clearly connecting with the audience and participants.

African drumming performance (c) MJT

Nico's Drum Family (c) MJT

African market entertainment (c) MJT

A sample of a tuna pasty (Thunfisch Teigtaschen) was quite delicious, and much of the other food on offer was equally appetizing.

Traditional African cuisine (c) MJT

African Tuna Pasty (c) MJT

Afrikanisches Thunfisch Teigtaschen (c) MJT

Heading upstream and away from the old city I finally had a close view of the Rheinturm though I didn't go up it, and further into the Neuer Zollhof where some very interesting architecture has been fostered.

 

Walking upstream along the Rhein (c) MJT

Rheinturm (c) MJT

Of particular interest is the Frank Gehry designed, 1999 arts and media centre. Using the same angled windows in all the odd shaped buildings, these unique shapes are as interesting from afar as they are up close - many visitors taking photos near the reflective metal clad centre building.

 

Frank Gehry design (c) MJT

Reflective metal surface (c) MJT

Neuer Zollhof (c) MJT

The entire harbour side appears to have been rejuvenated through interesting architecture, such as the people scaling the facade and the Lego building. While there were many people walking around, I suspect it is an area ideal for business lunches or high-end restaurants, as not much seemed open on a Sunday afternoon.

 

Neuer Zollhof (c) MJT

Neuer Zollhof (c) MJT

Neuer Zollhof (c) MJT

Walking back towards the old town, passing the African market still in swing, I came across the longest outdoor book market I think I have ever witnessed. And the local beer "alt" flowing at numerous pubs along the way home. 

Sunday book market (c) MJT

Inner harbour (c) MJT

Book market along the Rhein (c) MJT

So in conclusion I was surprised by just how busy Sundays can be in Düsseldorf given most of the shops are closed and that the city is very business orientated during the week. And I'm sure I only just scratched the surface.