Gendarmenmarkt Weihnachtsmarkt

A CLOSER LOOK AT ONE OF OUR FAVOURITE CHRISTMAS MARKETS

In my last blog post I described our general experience leading up to and including Christmas, which didn't give me a chance to explain in greater detail the Christmas markets in Germany. 

ⓒ MJT

The Christmas market, or Weihnachtsmarkt, in the centre of Berlin at Gendarmenmarkt is one of our favourite places to visit during December. It is one of the few markets that remain open for the few days after Christmas. 

ⓒ MJT

Gendarmenmarkt is in the centre of Berlin on Charlottenstrasse (near Friedrichstrasse) and Franzözischestrasse. The site was originally the area where a number french cavalry defected from Napolean's army and settled. Hence the area of the cuirassier of Gens d'Armes was germanified to Gen-darmen-markt (square/market). 

View to Franzözischer Dom ⓒ MJT

The Huguenot community built their cathedral, now the Franzözischer Dom (French Cathedral), between 1701-1705 and is mirrored by the Deutscher Dom (German Cathedral) on the opposite side of the square, commissioned by the emperor as a gesture of respect. 

Towards Deutscher Dom ⓒ MJT

In the middle of the square between the two Dom-s is the Konzerthaus (Concert House) designed by Schinkel (who was the architect for many buildings in Berlin, including the Altes Museum).

Konzerthaus ⓒ MJT

As for the Weihnachtsmarkt itself, it opens in the last week of November and finishes on New Years Eve. Unlike most of the Christmas markets there is an entry fee of €1 (considered outrageous by many Berlin locals), however we consider it worthwhile, as it is a very safe, completely enclosed, and very well presented. If you can't bring yourself to pay the entry fee, Monday to Friday there is free entry 11am to 2pm. 

 

 

Christmas Market Gendarmenmarkt ⓒ MJT

There are your typical Weihnachtsmarkt foods, such as the compulsory Glühwein (malt wine) - with souvenir mug (or simply €3 deposit), Bratwurst or other sausage delicacies, and sweet crepes (usually with Nutella). However at the Gendarmenmarkt Weihnachtsmarkt one  has a selection of wood fired breads, Raclette (melted cheese on toast from Switzerland, but a very common New Years Eve dinner), dried apple crisps, pesto selections and indoor Wine Bars (eg from Lafayette) or Italian restaurants. Quarkbällchen are a common German dessert, and essentially a dougnat-like but cottage-cheese based, deep fried ball covered with powder sugar. Extremely healthy and nutritious of course...

Glühwein Stand ⓒ MJT

Glühwein ⓒ MJT

Raclette ⓒ MJT

Quarkbällchen ⓒ MJT

Indoor Wine Bar ⓒ MJT

Indoor tent with Chandeliers ⓒ MJT

A benefit of the Gendarmenmarkt Weihnachtsmarkt is that a third of the market is actually indoors (ideal for those cold, windy, snowy days in December) and shelters a number of hand made crafts and wares. People are often sitting at their stall making their wares before your eyes, including wood carvings, leather goods, weavers, knitters, wrought iron, art and more. 

Traditional Wooden Christmas Decorations ⓒ MJT

Tapestry weaver working at the far end ⓒ MJT

Undercover art and carvings stalls ⓒ MJT

Back outdoors there is the monument to the philosopher and writer Schiller standing in the centre of the square and the centre of the market, with an outdoor stage on the steps of the Konzerthaus (for both live bands, children's plays and general market entertainment). 

Schiller Monument ⓒ MJT

The giant Christmas tree stands high above the rest of the market and is donated each year by the mayor of Berlin. 

Weihnachtsbaum ⓒ MJT

Vor dem Weihnachtsbaum ⓒ MJT

And as in every Christmas market, there should be a nativity scene:

Nativity scene at Gendarmenmarkt ⓒ MJT

 

So until next year when the Gendarmenmarkt Weihnachtsmarkt returns, wishing you all the best for 2014 and if you have any suggestions of what you would like me to write about in Berlin, please leave a comment below. 

ⓒ MJT

Weihnachten in Berlin

Merry Christmas everyone. I hope you all had a wonderful Christmas celebration and are enjoying the last few days of 2013.

Greetings from N - (c) MJT

I am writing this post in order to share our Christmas experience in Berlin, the traditions that we have formed leading up to Christmas and for prosperity. Ironically we had some difficulty getting into the Christmas spirit this year, but we managed to put on our own ex-pat Christmas dinner regardless.

So the first task for putting us in the Christmas mood was to set up the Christmas Tree (O Tannenbaum) and decorations at the beginning of December. This is one of our traditions rather than common practice in Germany of decorating the tree as late as 24.12.

Weihnachtsbaum - (c) MJT

For a start, unlike most Berliners, we do not have a REAL tree. An assortment of Tannenbaum can be purchased on the streets, florists, supermarkets and pop-up tree yards. Our tree is plastic and is stored in the cellar for most of the year.

This year however we finally were organised in advance enough to purchase an advent wreath before the first advent, and the smell of fresh fir leaves are a very nice aroma of Christmas. 

Advent wreath and pyramid - (c) MJT

I was also very happy to finally have a Christmas Pyramid, which is a windmill like tiered structure, which spins via the heat from lit candles.

Something that has become quite a tradition for us is to visit the Jagdschloss Grunewald Christmas Market, which only opens for one weekend at the beginning of December. The hunting lodge castle is an half hour walk through the forest from the train station, but well worth it - plus N enjoys socializing with fellow canines. 

berlin-grunewald-schloss-weihnachtsmarkt

Our favourite Christmas Markets include Gendarmenmarkt (in front of the Konzerthaus Berlin), Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt at the Kulturbrauerei, Opernpalais (near the Staatsoper), Alexanderplatz around the fountain of Neptune and Charlottenburg Palace. 

www.gendarmenmarktberlin.de

http://lucia-weihnachtsmarkt.de

I believe it is important to remember the true meaning of Christmas and I find it quite irritating when people or institutions try to make Christmas politically correct, out of fear of offending people of non-Christian beliefs. It is Christ's Mass! Ergo I have endeavoured for a number of years now to attend midnight mass, and this year I felt particularly spiritually uplifted for doing so. 

(c) MJT

For the past three years we have attended midnight mass in the Berliner Dom on Heiligabend (Christmas Eve). This is also the most important day for celebrations in Germany - 24.12 is the public holiday!! There is something extra special I find, attending a service at Midnight to a packed Cathedral.

 

 

And then after returning home from Midnight Mass we opened presents and skyped relatives back in Australia (around 2-3am) before waking up ready for Christmas Lunch. 

We invited 12 other ex-pats to our Christmas, so the table and living room was indeed full. But we managed to fit everyone around for the lunch/dinner, and E and I prepared Turkey Wellington (thanks to Jamie Oliver - cranberries in the middle of the turkey breast, wrapped in pastry), Duck Orange (thanks to Lafayette), E's Tofu/Apricot Vegetarian Stuffing, Salmon steaks also wrapped in Pastry, plus the assortment of roast vegetables, salads, etc. 

E also prepared the traditional brandy-soaked Christmas Pudding, which we of course set on fire, plus some Chocolate/Rasberry Torts.

We made our own Glühwein and had a wonderfully time celebrating Christmas Day with friends. 

Who knows where we may be by next Christmas, but I feel like we have managed to build up some of our own traditions during our time in Berlin. 

Best wishes for the coming new year!!